Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Troubleshooting

Diagnosing an Engine Computer can be frustrating. If you're having trouble here are a few things to look for:

1. Key flashing on dash. This is the number one complaint we get and it's a clear indication that the key sync process did not take. If you can't get your key to sync there could be a few things going on.
First, you may have an issue with your immobilizer ring, wiring or keys(which can also cause a no start that makes it look like you have a bad ECU).
Second, you need two keys in order to successfully complete the key syncing procedure. No amount of whining will make this requirement void. We didn't build it after all(we've tried the whining, it doesn't work). You CAN send your original ECU in to us and we can copy/paste the key data onto the new ECU so long as your original ECU isn't tampered with during diag. Meaning, the original ECU wasn't attempted to reflash in order to fix it but it ends up failing or the keys were deleted from the car. We currently charge $99 for the service but is subject to change at any time.
Third, you may just have a stubborn system. Any procedure mentioned below can take up to 6 tries(10 tries once) in order to get it to take. This is not something we built or created. This is straight from good ole Ford. This could be the scan tool you're using as well. For instance, the baud rate of communication between ECU and scan tool can literally be too fast for the ECU to keep up and there will be data corruption. The tool will either finish but not actually be completed or fail entirely.
Fourth, if you still cant get the system to take your keys, you may need to call a locksmith or use a different high end scan tool to complete the process We'll be posting a PATS Guide here shortly to help people identify their system based on year/make/model. The newer the car(2016+), the more likely you'll need a locksmith. The security procedure to get into the newer cars involves NASTF and a special LSID license. 

2. Check the part number of the unit you have in your vehicle. When looking for the part number, it should be one of the bigger numbers on the label. Now check the invoice of the unit you purchased. Do they match? They need to. If the part number is different, we cannot guarantee the unit will work with your vehicle and could be the reason you're having trouble. 

3. Check the original ECU connector. Are there any burned areas, broken pins or corrosion? There could be a pin stuck in your original connector. This could cause a bent pin or a connection issue. Which could potentially touch another pin and this can cause some seriously wonky issues all the way up to wiring/ecu damage. The pins can bend even if the connectors are fine. We are very careful with ECU's during programming and shipping but we're not perfect. A pin could have also been bent during installation. A burn mark could also indicate that wire in the connector is burned and completely disconnected further inside. 

4. Have you reconnected all the other connectors and ground straps that may have been disconnected during diagnostics?

5. Have you cleared the check engine lights after installation? This step can sometimes be ignored and the ECU will do it's own self-check but in most cases you SHOULD clear the check engine lights with a scan tool. Residual codes can cause a no start. 

6. Do you have enough voltage in your battery? When a vehicle is down for a while, the battery can start to go flat if it's older. Ensuring your vehicle has a HEALTHY rotation when starting is a must. When the starter is engaged, the battery will pull as many amps as it can to turn the starter, if the battery is low, it might not have enough juice for the coils to properly spark which can cause a no start. 

7. Did you send us ALL of your vehicles information? Was is correct? Can you verify the vin you sent us is correct? If we NEED information, we'll reach out but it's important to know everything was sent correctly.

8. Did you fix the original issue in the vehicle before installing a new unit? If the original issue is still unresolved, it's possible the new ECU has suffered the same fate. 

9. Some Ford's require a Parameter Reset after installation as well as a Keep Alive Memory(KAM) reset. We haven't quite nailed down why but even cars and trucks WITHOUT PATS may need these completed. 

 

Q. My car has new check engine lights on that it didn't have before.

A. It's possible the previous ECU was adapting to the issue at hand over a long period of time. What I mean is if your air filter slowly starts to clog, your car will slowly adapt by adding less and less fuel. It will keep running and still not throw a code but once you erase the adaptation the previous ECU was compensating with or replace the ECU entirely, the new ECU will see there is an error because the new ECU didn't adapt with the vehicle and the issue. This is not always the case and the situation varies but we've seen it before. This can happen with many different types of issues, not just air filters. Oxygen sensors, MAF sensors, pretty much anything that reads on a 5v scale. Which is a lot of them.

Q. How does the immobilizer system work? 

A. Every system is different but commonly, vehicles will have either an external immo box or it will pawn off the task to something like the gauge cluster or body control module. For instance, the MKIV Jetta/Golf. That system stores the immo/key data in the cluster. When the key to the vehicle is inserted into the cylinder, the ring around the cylinder will send a signal to the cluster. That signal is comprised of an RFID number that's unique to that key. The cluster will then cross reference the signal it has against the "database" of keys it has stored on it's internal memory. If the key doesn't match, it will start for 1-2 seconds and then the cluster will send a signal to the ECU to kill the engine. The ECU then set's an immobilizer code: P1570 - Engine Start Blocked By Immobilizer.
This is a general overview of the system but that should give you an idea.

 

Q: I plugged in the new PCM and have zero communication with the vehicle now.

A: Please check the pins inside the connector. Look for bent or folded pins. We program these on the bench and if we cannot communicate with the unit, we can't program it. If we can't program it, we don't ship it because it would be a very obvious issue. If that looks fine. Plug in the old unit and verify communication. Our unit may have been damaged during shipping.